It is still the high holidays season, (Hag sameach!) so I've got another week to find new ways to entertain myself without getting a bad case of cabin fever again.
Istanbul
(with lots of photos!!)
Istanbul is filled with historical sites (think Aya Sofia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace) , hectic and crowded bazaars, jewel-like mosques and more kebab stands than one could even dream of, but it's also incredibly modern with a clean, convenient, cheap! and efficient tram system, colorful buildings, and spacious highways that are so refreshing after trying to navigate through cramped and winding streets.
We visited all the important historical sites in Istanbul and even had time for a short cruise down the Bosphorous and a visit to a Dali exhibition.
I was surprised more people didn't speak English, but many seemed to know some Spanish.
Food mostly consisted of lamb or kofte with bread or rice. I must have gained at least a good five pounds in the last five days, but I figure, all this protein will just have to last me until January because until then, I'll be living off of peanut butter jelly sandwiches again. It's really a good thing I like them so much.
Prices varied with your neighborhood hole-in-the-wall types serving hearty Turkish comfort food and the fancier restaurants lining the pier and bedazzling tourists with their bright lights and belly dancing entertainment.
The verdict is, everywhere we went, the food was good, and everywhere we went, the food tasted pretty much the same. Ultimately, we paid for ambience when we wanted it.
When I think of Istanbul, I think of the great Ottoman Empire, Suleyman the Magnificent
, the Janissaries 
(A "Janissary guard" at the Topkapi Palace), luxurious hammams, Turkish delight and baklava, harem intrigue, and finally the Sick Man of Europe.Having just visited, I best remember walking into the stained glass rooms of Topkapi Palace and imagining myself in the insides of the most precious jewelry boxes.
yes, I know. Pattern overload.
I fondly remember watching fishermen try their luck along the wharf and the bridges across the Bosphorous as the neighborhood cats gently rooted them on with plaintive purrs and gleaming eyes.
I remember gazing up at the dome of the Hagia Sofia and wondering how in the world I got so lucky.
I remember tagging along the English, Spanish or Korean speaking tour guides at the Blue Mosque while admiring the turquoise ocean blending into the bluest tiles lining the walls.
I remember trying to pronounce Turkish words to no avail and trying to remember when and when not to pronounce the "g" in words.
I also remember relaxing in the hammam and thinking how women just like me sat here naked like this 300 years ago in the very same place and bathed from the very same basins.
I thought this pot was pretty cool
-the Ottomans had a huge collection of china that came through the Silk Road. The china that was sent to the Ottomans sometimes had little details like the crescent ornament to fit Islamic tastes.The Hagia Sofia at night.
the Blue Mosque at night.
The Blue Mosque during the day.
The two men standing next to me were also taking a photo. I decided to jump in with them.
Inside the Blue Mosque filled with many many tourists even in the off season.
In the Basilica Cistern was creepy and beautiful.
There were men selling roasted chestnuts everywhere, and the smell always reminded me of my mom because she loves to eat them.
Fountains and buildings on the grounds of Topkapi Palace:
And then we ventured into the harem, which was well worth the extra 15 lira.
The Grand Bazaar
was less impressive than the Khan al-Khalili souk in Cairo. Just sayin'.Suleyman the Magnificent's tomb
Again with the toy guns.
We were blessed with wonderful weather for most of our trip, but the day of our Bosphorous Cruise was pretty rainy and windy.
We were originally going to take a 6 hour cruise, but missed the boat because no one could understand what we were asking them. This turned out to be a good thing because we ended up finding a 2 hour cruise, and as soon as I stepped on the boat, I remembered that I get horribly sea-sick. Basically, it was a 2 hour nap for me, but I occasionally woke up to take some photos.
The entrance to Dolmbahce Palace
that we passed by on our way to the Dali exhibit.That's it for my travels in the Middle East for now. No more breaks after this. And more importantly, no more money.
